The road leaves the little town of Netarts and follows the coast to the even smaller village of Oceanside, it's terraced hillsides and bluffs home to covetous views of the great Pacific expanse. On a warm september evening after a day of rain, the skies were still leaden and I wandered the beach looking but not seeing, until the scene seemed to fall in place. At low tide the surf line was way out, and a mist of sea spray hung in the air, blending gray into gray that would have obscured the horizon if not for the stacks offshore. Three Ach Rocks stand huddled and defiant in turn, deceptively big enough to think you could walk up and touch them, just out beyond the far berm that the waves were beating against, even though they were a half mile away. In front of me, a maze of sand riffles, with moats of water between, were subtly drawing me out to the mystery line, oceanside.